I recently read the report ‘Consumer perspectives on eco-labeling of textiles’ written by Marthe Hårvik Austgulen. Aim of the study is to answer the question if European consumers are of the view that they have a responsibility for solving the environmental challenges in the textile industry, and if they have the necessary knowledge to take that responsibility.[p15] This report also shows if eco-labeling on textiles helps consumers in making their choice. I will tell you my findings.
Most of the respondents regard price, quality and durability as very important or important considerations when buying textiles.[p37]
But earlier in the report was mentioned that most of the respondents do not have so much information about sustainability of products. Therefore the respondents were divided in two groups (Figure 5.1 Components):
It is interesting to see that health, environmental considerations and fair trade score high with group 1 and design, price and colour score high with group 2. From this we can conclude that group 1 may thus represent the political consumer, who applies values other than purely self-interested ones in consumer choice situations. And group 2 buys with more individualistic/materialistic values.
But earlier in the report was mentioned that most of the respondents do not have so much information about sustainability of products. Therefore the respondents were divided in two groups (Figure 5.1 Components):
- With knowledge about sustainability and
- No or less knowledge about sustainability.
It is interesting to see that health, environmental considerations and fair trade score high with group 1 and design, price and colour score high with group 2. From this we can conclude that group 1 may thus represent the political consumer, who applies values other than purely self-interested ones in consumer choice situations. And group 2 buys with more individualistic/materialistic values.
When asked what would be the best strategy for the environment it is not surprisingly, many respondents in all countries think that buying fewer clothes is the best strategy. However, buying eco-labelled clothes is regarded as the second best alternative in Germany, France and Sweden. What the respondents considers being the best strategy for the environment might not be their preferred strategy or the strategy which is the easiest for them to implement” and here is the challenge. As the makers of the report asked the respondents which of the strategies would be the easiest for them to implement in their current situation. And the results indicate that more than 50 per cent of the respondents in all countries consider buying fewer cloths as the easiest solution for them to implement. [p46] I sense here a good opportunity for slow fashion: buying less, but more environment friendly clothes.
As you can see a lot of respondents do not know where to shop if they want to buy eco-labelled clothes and textiles. When the question was asked if they would buy eco-labelled clothing more often if were available for purchase 30% agrees or even strongly agrees. But as mentioned earlier price is a very important factor when buying clothes and textiles. These results do however not say anything about how much more the respondents are willing to pay extra for eco-labelled clothes and textiles. [p49]
Other interesting findings were:
Conclusion on the use of eco-labels:
If eco-labels are to be successful several conditions need to be satisfied. From the consumer perspective a first condition is that there need to be a certain level of knowledge in the population regarding the problems the labels are trying to solve. A second condition is that the eco-labels used must be well known and trusted by the consumers. A third condition is that the consumers need to feel a certain responsibility for solving the challenges in the textile industry. A fourth condition is that products with the relevant eco-label need to be available for purchase.[p67]
Other interesting findings were:
- Approximately 50 per cent of the respondents in all countries agree to the statement “I think that I have a responsibility as a consumer to buy products that are as environmentally friendly as possible.” [p11]
- According to both Hiller Connell (2011) and Laitala and Klepp many consumers assume that natural fibres are environmentally preferable to man-made fibres. This behaviour of favouring natural fibres over manufactures fibres is an illustrating example of the disparity that can exist between the consumers’ perceptions of environmental impact and the actual environmental impact. Empirical evidence indicates that most natural fibres have as much of an environmental impact as manufactured fibres (Chouinard and Brown 1997; Franklin-Associates 1993; Walsh and Brown 1995). [p20]
- Between 46-71% of the respondents agree with the statement “there are many labels I don’t know the meaning of” A label loses its purpose if a consumer doesn’t know its meaning, therefore clear communication towards the consumer is important.
- Women report to be more concerned about the environment when buying textiles than men and older respondents seem to some degree to be more concerned about the environment implications than younger respondents. [p63]
- The majority of the respondents agree with the statement that ‘labelling helps me make better choices when I am shopping’. [p64]
Conclusion on the use of eco-labels:
If eco-labels are to be successful several conditions need to be satisfied. From the consumer perspective a first condition is that there need to be a certain level of knowledge in the population regarding the problems the labels are trying to solve. A second condition is that the eco-labels used must be well known and trusted by the consumers. A third condition is that the consumers need to feel a certain responsibility for solving the challenges in the textile industry. A fourth condition is that products with the relevant eco-label need to be available for purchase.[p67]
Summarized from the report: Austgulen, M.H., 2013, Consumer perspectives on eco-labelling of texiles, http://www.sifo.no/files/file78708_oppdragsrapport_2-2013_web.pdf